Watch Straps and Bracelets: A Buyer's Guide

The strap changes how a watch looks and feels almost as much as the watch itself. Swapping it is the cheapest way to make a watch feel new, and choosing well makes the difference between a watch you wear every day and one that stays in the drawer.

Metal bracelets are durable, water-friendly and dressy or sporty depending on the finish. Common styles include the three-link oyster style, the five-link jubilee and the mesh milanese. A good bracelet has solid links, a clasp that closes securely and a micro-adjust feature so you can fine-tune the fit through the day. Their downside is weight and the need to remove links for sizing.

Leather is the classic dress choice. It is light and comfortable, but it does not like water, so avoid wearing it in the shower or the pool. Calf is the everyday standard, and suede and shell cordovan have their own looks and care needs. Expect to replace a leather strap every year or two if you wear it daily.

Rubber and silicone straps are comfortable, waterproof and ideal for divers and active wear. Better ones are soft and cut to fit the case precisely, and some use a vulcanised rubber that does not stiffen in the cold.

Fabric straps such as NATO and similar nylon types are cheap, light and easy to swap. They suit field watches and casual use, and they dry quickly. A thin nylon strap adds a little height under the watch, which can matter on a thick case.

To fit a strap, you need the lug width: the gap between the lugs, in millimetres. It is listed in the specification for most watches. Straps come in even sizes, such as 18, 20 and 22mm, and the closest size that fits snugly is correct. Quick-release spring bars make swapping tool-free.

Match the strap to the occasion and the dial. A dressy dial suits leather, a dive watch suits rubber or steel, and a field watch looks right on fabric. Try a couple, and keep the original for the day you sell the watch.