What a Watch Service Involves and What Drives the Cost

A mechanical watch contains hundreds of tiny parts that move constantly, and the oils that keep them running smoothly break down over time. A service is a full overhaul that restores the watch to proper working order. Understanding what it involves explains why it is not cheap and why quotes differ.

During a full service the watchmaker takes the movement apart completely, cleans every part, inspects it for wear and replaces what is worn out. The parts are re-lubricated with the right oils in the right places, the movement is reassembled and then regulated, which means adjusting it so it keeps accurate time in different positions. The case and bracelet are cleaned, the gaskets that seal the watch are replaced and the water resistance is pressure-tested.

How often? A common guideline is every five to ten years for a modern mechanical watch, though some brands now suggest longer intervals thanks to better lubricants. Watches worn daily or exposed to knocks and temperature swings may need attention sooner. Warning signs include a sharp drop in accuracy, a shortened power reserve, a gritty feel to the crown or moisture under the crystal. Do not wait for a stopped watch, since running dry causes wear.

Several things drive the cost. Complexity is the biggest: a simple three-hand watch is far quicker to service than a chronograph, perpetual calendar or repeater, which have many more parts. The brand matters, since an official manufacturer service centre generally charges more than an independent watchmaker and may have longer waiting times, though it brings original parts and often a warranty on the work. Rare or discontinued calibres can need parts to be sourced or made by hand, which raises the price. Case materials and finishing also have an effect.

Ask for a written quote before work begins, and ask exactly what it includes. Check whether polishing is included, as it removes metal from the case and can soften its edges, so many collectors decline it. Ask what warranty comes with the service and whether replaced parts will be returned to you.

Quartz watches are cheaper to maintain, as they mainly need a new battery and fresh seals, but they still benefit from a water-resistance test if you swim with them.

Budget for a service when you buy. A watch that is cheap to buy but expensive to service is not always the bargain it appears to be, and our spec pages list the movement so you can look up how common it is.